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Combed cotton is an extremely soft version of cotton made by specially treating the cotton fibers before they are spun into yarn. As a general rule, combed cotton is slightly more expensive than conventional cotton. The extremely soft, strong material is ideal for making bed linens and clothing which will be worn against the skin. If the textile used in a cotton product is combed cotton, it will usually be clearly identified.

To make conventional cotton wool or thread, the cotton is harvested, cleaned to remove dirt and seeds, and then carded. Carding separates the fibers and roughly lines them up, so that they all lie in the same direction. The cotton is divided into slivers, hanks of raw cotton which are spun into thread or wool. When cotton is combed, fine brushes are used to pull out any remaining impurities, along with short cotton fibers. Approximately 15% of the volume is removed, leaving behind only long, straight fibers which are even and aligned. The slivers of combed cotton are then spun into thread.

The texture of combed cotton is softer because it lacks short threads to stick out and prickle, and all dirt and impurities have been removed from the thread. Combed cotton is also stronger, because shorter and breakable fibers have been removed through combing. In addition, the straightened fibers lie together more tightly after combing, making combed cotton thread less likely to fray and unravel. Because the combing process removes volume and adds an extra step, the resulting textile will be slightly more costly.

Many companies prefer to use combed cotton for clothing and bed linens because of the softness and tensile strength. Cotton which has not undergone the combing step tends to be more rough, and it will be more subject to fraying, pilling, and tearing. Combed cotton will, of course, ultimately break down, just like regular cotton. It is an excellent choice for garments intended to be worn by babies and the elderly, since it is gentle against the skin.

Care directions for combed cotton are much like those for conventional cotton. As a general rule, it can be washed and dried at any temperature. However, dyed combed cotton may bleed if it is washed on high heat, and knits are subject to shrinkage. The use of lukewarm temperatures and mild detergents will prolong the life of the fabric. The specific care label on a product should always be followed, in case the cotton has been mixed with another type of fiber, or it has been specially treated.

Preshrunk garments are items of clothing that have already been washed, or “compacted,” so additional washings will not shrink the garment significantly. In many cases, when you have natural fibers like wool, cotton, or linen, the fabric may be stretched, since it is more economical to use less fabric if you can get away with it. Washing these garments, and the tumbling action in the dryer will cause the garments to go back to their unstretched form, resulting in smaller clothes.

Since it’s helpful to buy a clothing size that will still fit after washing, you’ll note that many fabrics, particularly cotton jersey, are preshrunk. This means the fabric, instead of being stretched, has first been washed, and pushed together in a process called compaction. The fibers are forced closer together, and gradually become looser through home washing. This doesn’t mean a preshrunk garment won’t shrink at all, but it will shrink less, especially with early washings, and will maintain the same size for a much longer time than a garment that is not preshrunk.

Eventually, especially when clothes are dried in the dryer, even preshrunk clothes will shrink somewhat, given enough washing. To address this, it’s a good idea to buy cotton garments in a slightly larger size than you would normally need, especially cotton jersey garments. Cotton pants, especially corduroy are generally not preshrunk, and will gradually get shorter as they are washed. Another notorious shrinking fabric is cotton flannel. Always buy flannel nightgowns a size or two larger than what you think you need.

Manmade fibers have frequently eliminated the need for garments to be preshrunk. Adding enough polyester to cotton, for instance, will usually help a garment retain its shape and size, since polyester holds its form better in the wash. The disadvantage of polyester, nylon and other manmade fibers is that they may not be as comfortable, and are generally less breathable than are natural fibers.

If you’re really crazy about cotton, wool or linen, and want to stay away from fibers like acrylic or polyester, look for labels stating that the clothing is washable or that boast the clothing has been preshrunk. All clothing tends to wear better, last longer and maintain its size if you do not place it in the dryer. So if you have non-preshrunk garments, consider drip or line drying only. Note that even preshrunk garments tend to shrink eventually, so you may want to observe this caution with any garment for which you want to maintain the same shape, length or size.

 

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